Sour cherry sauce has been in my life for longer than I can remember. Whether it was lovingly wrapped into my grandmother's blintzes, came bursting out of a plump varenik (pierogie for the Ukrainians of you), or was ladled on top of a tart and delicate cake, it has been a constant presence in our desserts, lunches, breakfasts.
Sour cherry sauce is a condiment, a topping, a filling. But above all, it's a host of memories: some good, some bad, some painful.
My boyfriend loves black forest cake. He is undoubtedly thinking of the store-bought, maraschino cherry-laden, whipped cream-topped affair everyone envisions when they hear the name.
But I have something else in store.
It's a towering mess, my black forest cake. Layers of homemade whipped cream interchange with chocolate cake and I am in my parents' kitchen on a Saturday. I am reeling from the pain of a break up from the black forest cake-loving man who was a constant companion for seven long years. The cacophony of songbirds outside is deafening, especially against the pounding hangover in my head, and the metallic taste in my mouth. There is glitter still on my arms and cleavage, glitter on the pants I threw on the floor as I stumbled home at 2am. Glitter on the chest of a man whose face I'd rather forget, have already forgotten. Glitter everywhere... Yet I don't remember there being glitter at the party I was at.
My parents just came back from a riveting game of tennis, or whatever it is that they do in the country club every Saturday. My mother is running around the kitchen, hastily throwing pots and pans onto the stovetop. She boils water, and throws some sour cherry vareniki in the pot.
I stand and watch them, little pockets of sour cherry sauce floating in a saucepan of water. Rivulets and whirpools spin all around them. There is so much movement in that little pot that it's almost enough to make me feel like the world is not coming to an end in my head. It is almost enough to make me feel strong.
Fifteen minutes later, lunch is served. I am the first to sit down, leaving a trail of glitter on the kitchen floor.
I dig my fork into a varenik, and sour cherry sauce come bursting out, its warm liquid stinging my hand and landing on the white t-shirt I am wearing, staining it an irrevocable, glaring red.
I look down at myself and sigh. I think for a moment of whether I should get up and change, or stop eating altogether, or go out on the street and lose myself completely in the crowds of people.
Then, my mother comes and sits down next to me. She rests her hand on top of mine, stroking my fingers gently, absentmindedly.
I smile and ignore the stain. I dig into my vareniki, letting the sour cherry juices dribble down my chin. I decide to stay here, with her and the sour cherry sauce, at least for today.
My grandmother rolls her blitzes tightly, like the fate of the world rests amongst their folds. They are golden and beautiful, brown in the spots where the butter kissed the dough for a bit longer than necessary. She always fries them in butter, even when she promises my cousin and I they're dairy-free. We know better than to believe her, yet we eat them anyway.
There is no boy I'm grieving over anymore. No hangover. No glitter. But there is sour cherry sauce inside my grandmother's
Recipe
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Sour cherry sauce
Ingredients
- 1 cup 300 g sour cherries, pitted - fresh, canned or jarred all work
- ยผ cup sour cherry juice or water
- 2 TBs sugar 3 TBs if using water
- 1 teaspoon cornstarch
Instructions
- Pour juice or water into a heavy saucepan. Add sugar and cornstarch and whisk until smooth. Bring to a boil over moderate heat and cook until slightly thickened, about a minute. Stir cherries and let cool.
Elena says
This is something so dear to me! I'm craving your mother's vareniki with sour cherries right now ๐ Great post, as always!
kseniaprints says
Thank you, Elena! I know, I love the stories that bring a dish to life as well - which is why I love your blog so much ๐
Kathryn @ The Scratch Artist says
Beautiful. So beautiful. I love reading your writing. And I too am a sour cherry fanatic. I love it on and with everything. Although I have never tried it with a black forest style cake. I wish you had made that one for me. There would have been no tears just giggles. I loved hearing how sour cherries have become intertwined in so many of your stories and memories. Stories about life through food are my favorite (obviously).
kseniaprints says
They really are one of the most amazing fruit! I wish I could find them fresh in supermarkets here. Instead, I have to try and catch their short season at the Farmer's Market, or enjoy the jarred variety year-round.
Kellie MacMillan says
What a great story. I'm wiping away the tears. It's been a long week and your story just soothed my soul.
I adore sour cherries. I'll have to locate some this summer( as I live in cherry country). I've seen them in big buckets. I've only ever bought them in a jar at the grocery store.
I think I'll make up a batch of this and come up with some creative uses this holiday season.
kseniaprints says
I WISH I lived in cherry country! Seriously, Kellie, I'm just going to have to visit you one day soon.
Anne says
Awww such a lovely story! These look wonderful -I never have the patience to make crepes, they're so thin and it seems like it would take forever!!! It's so admirable that you made them!!!!! ๐
kseniaprints says
Anne, it honestly is soooo easy. It's just the frying time that can be intimidating - but at a minute or two (TOPS) per crepe/ blintz, they really are less intimidating than they look! I would recommend them for a holiday tradition.
Joscelyn | Wifemamafoodie says
This looks so delicious, Ksenia! I LOVE sour cherry sauce and I bet they would be so good in those blintzes! I also loved hearing all of your stories that involved sour cherry sauce ๐ It's funny how certain foods brings back many memories from our past! At least there are some happy ones to remember with this recipe!
kseniaprints says
There is always some good, even in the bad memories - for it helps me remember just how much sweeter the good times are. It's just like this sour cherry sauce - it's the balance of tart and sweet that makes it the best. Hope you're having a lovely holiday, Joscelyn!